Using the Nikon Scan 4.0.2 plugin with Adobe Photoshop CS3 on an Intel Mac running OS X 10.5

This content is 16 years old. I don't routinely update old blog posts as they are only intended to represent a view at a particular point in time. Please be warned that the information here may be out of date.

Tonight is my local camera club meeting and it’s competition night, which meant I needed to make prints from some of my recent images. After an emergency trip to HobbyCraft last night to buy some mats to mount the prints (unfortunately it was too late in the day to catch the local picture framer), I set to work on tweaking the images before printing them (hence the requirement to buy some extra ink yesterday!!!). The digital files were fine but two of the images to enter in the competition needed to be scanned from film, which meant setting up my Nikon Super Coolscan 4000 ED with my MacBook (running OS X 10.5.5) and Nikon Scan 4.0.2 as a plugin Adobe Photoshop CS3.

A couple of years ago, I wrote about installing Nikon Scan as Photoshop CS2 plugin on my Mac Mini but things have moved on since then. I hadn’t realised that the Nikon Scan plugin is a PowerPC application (and my Macs have Intel processors) and under CS2 (which ran on OS X’s Rosetta emulation layer) this wasn’t a problem but I couldn’t get CS3 (which is a Universal application) to recognise the plugin (incidentally, my original advice to copy the plugin to the Photoshop plugins folder works, but there is an alternative – simply add the path to the legacy plugin in the Photoshop preferences):

Enabling Nikon Scan in the Photoshop preferences

Select Rosetta emulation for Photoshop CS3The answer is to adjust the file information the Photoshop CS3 application to open it using Rosetta (information found on a photo.net forum post). After this is done, Photoshop CS3 is happy to run the plugin, although the interface is not at all Mac-like (and Nikon have stated that they will not be updating Nikon Scan for full OS X 10.5 compatibility). I could use alternative scanning tools (like VueScan) but, despite the awful user interface, Nikon Scan serves its purpose and includes support for the ICE features of my scanner.

It’s worth pointing out that Rosetta is limited to accessing 1.5GB of memory for all non-Intel processes. As I have 4GB of RAM in my MacBook, that’s starving Photoshop of resources, so it’s worth turning off Rosetta when Nikon Scan is not required. Alternatively I could run Nikon Scan as a standalone application but I prefer to run applications like this as plugins.

Incidentally, for those who are interested, these are the pictures I’ll be entering in tonight’s competition:

Silverton HotelTornadoSt Pancras International (2)Basilique du Sacré-Coeur from Musée D'Orsay

(These images are ©1993-2009 Mark Wilson, all rights reserved and are therefore excluded from the Creative Commons license used for the rest of this site.)

[Update 22:30: the St Pancras International image was awarded third place in the open category! The others didn’t make the cut]

Why adjustment layers are preferable to directly editing an image in Photoshop

This content is 16 years old. I don't routinely update old blog posts as they are only intended to represent a view at a particular point in time. Please be warned that the information here may be out of date.

I’ve been trying to improve my Photoshop skills recently including signing up for Digital Photography evening classes at a local college (which, 4 weeks in, are very disappointing) but I’ve also been picking up some tips at my local camera club.

At last night’s club meeting, John Winchcomb gave a very technical talk on tone and colour correction which I’m still trying to get my head around but that talk included a very useful tip: instead of reaching for the various adjustment options on Photoshop’s Image menu (including common options like levels and curves), consider creating a new adjustment layer instead. That way it is possible to go back and edit the adjustments as they are applied as a non-destructive edit rather than being directly applied to the image. Normally the adjustment layer will apply to all layers below but it can be created as a clipping layer to only affect the layer immediately below.

Other advantages to adjustment layers include the ability to selectively edit using an image mask and also to copy and paste adjustment layers in order to apply the same changes to multiple images.

Whilst on the subject of layers, it’s probably worth highlighting another tip I picked up recently: before doing anything in Photoshop, create a new layer by copy (Ctrl+J on a PC or command+J on a Mac) and work on that. Using this method, the original image will remain on the background unaffected, should you ever want to revert, or to compare the manipulated image with the original.

How tone mapping can transform an HDR image

This content is 16 years old. I don't routinely update old blog posts as they are only intended to represent a view at a particular point in time. Please be warned that the information here may be out of date.

A few weeks back, I wrote about my efforts to create a photographic image with high dynamic range (HDR). Since then, I’ve learned that Adobe Photoshop’s approach to HDR is really little more than exposure blending. I had been reasonably pleased with the results (at least on screen) but then I gave Photomatix Pro a try.

Pointe de Trévignon HDR from Photomatix Pro

The initial HDR image that Photomatix Pro produced was disappointing, with deep shadows and washed out skies, but then I read in the help text that this was effectively in an unprocessed state, that my monitor cannot display the full range of information and that, in order to reveal highlight and shadow detail, I need to apply tone-mapping. Photomatix Pro did that for me and – wow! What a difference!

Pointe de Trévignon HDR from Photomatix Pro after tone-mapping

I thought this looked a little too surreal on screen so I reduced the luminosity (it’s actually much better when printed) but you can see how the detail is preserved throughout the entire exposure.

Pointe de Trévignon HDR from Photomatix Pro after tone-mapping

If I find myself creating other HDRs, I’ll probably purchase a copy of Photomatix Pro (and probably the Photoshop plugin version too) – until then I can continue to experiment with a fully-functional trial (but the resulting images will be watermarked – these screen shots are low-resolution previews). In the meantime, I’m going to try and get my head around the technical details of dynamic range, tone mapping and HDR imaging.

Setting up a digital photography workflow: preferences for Adobe Bridge, Camera Raw and Photoshop CS3

This content is 16 years old. I don't routinely update old blog posts as they are only intended to represent a view at a particular point in time. Please be warned that the information here may be out of date.

A couple of weeks back, I wrote about Adobe Photoshop CS3 from a photographer’s perspective and in this post I’ll outline some of the application preferences for Bridge (CS3), Camera Raw (4.x) and Photoshop (CS3) that may be useful when setting up a digital photography workflow (with thanks to David Tunnicliffe, who originally provided me with the bulk of this information):

  • In general (at an operating system level):
    • Add some memory (noting that each PC or Mac will have a limit in the maximum amount of memory it can support and that 32-bit operating systems can only access approximately 3.2GB).
    • Resist the temptation to compress hard disk drives – disks are relatively inexpensive and the available storage capacity is increasing rapidly.
  • Bridge (CS3: my installation is at v2.0.0.975; some extra information here relating to features introduced at v2.1):
    • General: adjust the background colour – dark grey will generally provide a non-distractive background; if Bridge is to be used for importing images when a camera is connected, select the appropriate checkbox under Behavior; remove items from the Favorites list that will not be used (e.g. Start Meeting).
    • Thumbnails: enable Adobe Camera Raw for JPEG and TIFF file handling; 400MB is the default maximum file size for the creation of thumbnails and should be more than enough for most photographers (unless they scan images at very high resolutions); high quality thumbnails can be useful; however conversion on preview is an intensive operation and should be avoided.
    • Playback: few photographers will be interested in media playback options (new in v2.1 – not present in v2.0).
    • Metadata: select/deselect as required – few photographers will need audio, video, or DICOM; GPS is becoming more relevant with the advent of location-based services.
    • Labels: edit the description to match the colour coding system in use – together with ratings, these can be useful for sorting.
    • Keywords: Can be used to build a hierarchy of keywords (new in v2.1 – not present in v2.0).
    • File type associations: edit if required to change the application that is associated with a given file type. Generally, these may be left at their defaults/
    • Cache: Clear the cache if problems are experienced with thumbnails (new in v2.1 – not present in v2.0).
    • Inspector: not really relevant unless using Adobe VersionCue to manage workflow.
    • Startup Scripts: these can be disabled if not used but I have left them at the default settings (removing scripts will accelerate application load times).
    • Advanced: this is the place to clear the cache if there are issues with thumbnail display; international settings for language and keyboard are also set here; software rendering should be avoided if there is suitable graphics hardware available to do the work instead.
    • Adobe Stock Photos: probably of limited use to people who would like to sell their work! In fact, the service was discontinued in April 2008 and can be uninstalled from Bridge.
    • Meetings: Only relevant with Adobe Acrobat Connect.
  • Camera Raw (my installation has been updated to v4.5.0.175; the version originally shipped with my copy of Photoshop CS3 was v4.0):
    • Preferences (available in other Photoshop applications whilst loaded): save image settings in sidecar (.XMP) files; apply sharpening to preview images only; Camera Raw cache defaults to 1GB and can be purged if issues are experienced; JPEG and TIFF handling selected (not available in v4.0).
    • Main interface: ensure Preview is selected.
    • Workflow options (link at the bottom of the ACR window): Adobe RGB (1998) is probably the best colour space for most photographers (Sean T. McHugh explains more about the comparison between sRGB and Adobe RGB 1998); use 16-bits per channel; use size and resolution to upscale (for better results than applying interpolation in Photoshop).
  • Photoshop (CS3: v10.0):
    • General: Color picker should be set to Adobe; Image interpolation should be selected according to purpose but bicubic smoother is probably the most useful for photographers.
    • Interface: Select remember palette locations.
    • File handling: select the prefer Adobe Camera Raw for filetype options if you want to open JPEG or RAW files in Adobe Camera Raw (recommended); increase the length of the recent file list if required; disable version cue if not required.
    • Performance: Photoshop is memory hungry but don’t let it take more than 70% of the available RAM (that is the default) – use the ideal range as a guide; adjust scratch disk settings if you have multiple disks available; enable 3D acceleration if supported by the GPU; increase the number of history states if possible.
    • Transparency and Gamut: ensure opacity is set to 100% (default setting).
    • Units and rulers: minimum print resolution for new documents should be 300ppi (72ppi is fine for screen).
    • Plug-ins: this is only relevant if you have plug-ins for an old version of Photoshop or in a strange location.
    • Cursors; Guides, Grid, Slices and Count; Type: Nothing to change.

Of course, this is just scraping the surface – these applications alone are probably not the complete workflow and each of them offers far more functionality than most photographers will require. If you’re using the CS3 applications for graphic design work, then you’ll probably have a totally different setup.

Adobe Photoshop CS3 from a photographer’s perspective

This content is 16 years old. I don't routinely update old blog posts as they are only intended to represent a view at a particular point in time. Please be warned that the information here may be out of date.

Photography has been one of my hobbies for almost 30 years now and for the last four years I’ve been exclusively shooting in digital format but I’m still struggling to work out a decent workflow. Adobe Photoshop CS3 box shotSo, last Friday I took the day off work to attend a short course introducing key features of Adobe Photoshop and Lightroom (provided by my local Adult Education service and presented by David Tunnicliffe) and, at £36 for 6 hours of tuition, it was a bargain. I learnt a lot – and some people might find what follows to be a little obvious – but I’m hopething that for others it might be as useful as it was for me.

Adobe Photoshop CS3 is just one product from the Adobe Creative Suite, providing many more features than most photographers will need as it is designed for the graphics art industry in general. Even so, Photoshop CS3 includes some additional components that may be very useful for a photographer:

  • Introduced with CS2, Adobe Bridge literally bridges the gap between a file browser and the various applications in the Creative Suite, providing digital asset management functionality for organising, previewing and editing images.
  • Frequently updated for new proprietary raw formats, Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) provides the tools to open and edit raw image data from a digital camera. In addition to this, it can also work with JPEG and TIFF files to provide basic editing functionality without Photoshop.

In addition to the CS3 components above, there are two more products that may be of interest:

  • DNG is Adobe’s non-proprietary and royalty-free Digital Negative format which is intended to provide a solution for archival of digital images and has now been embraced by many camera manufacturers – the notable exceptions being Canon and Nikon. I don’t fancy my chances of being able to open .NEF images from my Nikon D70 in 30 years time but I’ll stand a better chance if I convert them to .DNG and Adobe provides a free DNG converter for Windows and Macintosh users.
  • Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 2 125x125Adobe Photoshop Lightroom is a product designed by photographers, for photographers using separate library, develop, slideshow, print and web views and including the ability to import (including creating folders), catalogue (with keywords) and backup in one action.

For me, Bridge was a revelation – I use my Mac for photography (so Windows utilities were no good to me) but I’ve always found Apple iPhoto a little too simplistic. It turns out that Bridge (together with ACR) is exactly what I needed to organise my images, open them in ACR (and optionally Photoshop) to perform non-destructive edits, with the changes (and associated metadata) stored in Sidecar (.XMP) files alongside the original image (avoiding the need to maintain multiple copies of images). In addition, now that I’m using Bridge I can drop a couple of utilities that I had previously relied on:

Previously, I’d struggled to get to grips with ACR (in fact, episode 40 of This Week in Photography featured a question from me asking for some guidance) but, armed with the knowledge I gained on the course and Adobe’s understanding Adobe Photoshop Camera Raw 4 white paper, I now understand that ACR is more than just a converter and it’s often all that’s required to make many adjustments to images (the exposure control in ACR let me recover an image that had been three stops underexposed) – and that it can handle JPEG and TIFF files too.

Adobe Camera Raw 4.0

As for Lightroom, David Tunnicliffe was very keen on the product (not surprising as he took part in its development) but, whilst I can see that its potentially useful for a professional photographer and that the ability to import, catalogue and backup images in one go would make a huge improvement to my workflow, I’m still not totally convinced by the interface. Maybe I’ll change my mind at version 3!

Adobe Photoshop Elements 7 125x125For those who don’t want to spend the money on Photoshop CS3 (it is very expensive if you’re not going to use it to it’s full potential) and who can manage without Bridge (which is only sold as part of Photoshop), Photoshop Elements (for Windows or Macintosh) includes enough functionality for many photographers, although some elements are hidden from the interface (find out more about the hidden elements at Richard Lynch’s site). Also, expect to see Photoshop Express become more and more useful over time. Meanwhile, ACR and the DNG converter are free downloads so they are available to Elements users too.

For me, I’m pretty sure that my new digital photography workflow will be built around Bridge and ACR and I expect to be writing some more photography-related posts as that workflow starts to come together.

Creating a photographic image with high dynamic range

This content is 16 years old. I don't routinely update old blog posts as they are only intended to represent a view at a particular point in time. Please be warned that the information here may be out of date.

Last year I wrote about the concept of making photographic images – not just taking them and my recent holiday in France was a perfect opportunity to reconnect with my photographic hobby and attempt to make some good landscape images.

I’d also been hearing a lot on the This Week in Photography podcast about the concept of high dynamic range (HDR) images (see TWiP episode 9), where multiple exposures are combined so that one or more shots exposed for the highlights are combined with others that make the most of the shadows and I decided to give that a try.

We were staying in a very attractive area of north-west France – Trévignon in Bretagne (Brittany) – and I found myself inspired to take photographs around the small port at Pointe de Trévignon. Thankfully, I have a very understanding (and patient) wife, as it took several attempts to get the image that I was looking for.

On the first evening, I went down to the harbour and took some photos. They were okay but nothing stunning. Even so, I discovered a couple of basic points that would help me out on future visits:

  • It’s really difficult for Photoshop to merge images that involve boats floating on water… the boats move so the images can’t be aligned (I felt such an idiot for not thinking of that one)!
  • If you take a set of images adjusting the aperture and the shutter speed then the two cancel one another out and what you end up with is a set of identically exposed images with a varying depth of field (that’s basic stuff from a photography 101)! In the end I settled on using either the camera’s auto-bracketing functionality (which will give me three shots at the chosen exposure interval) or, if I wanted more than three images to merge, shooting on aperture priority with manual focus and then adjusting the shutter speed to bracket the exposures (effectively fixing the focus and depth of field, then adjusting the exposure length to control the light entering the camera).

The next night I went out a bit later – I thought I’d try and catch the sunset. I tried some different sections of the coast to try and get the sun over the sea with some rocks for foreground interest (no boats this time!) but it wasn’t really working out. I’d also got my calculations wrong for when the sun would be setting and in the end I gave up waiting and went back to the house. Sometimes, you just have to accept that the ingredients for a good photo are not all there.

On the third day I had the location sorted (back to Pointe de Trévignon) and went out a bit later in the evening. I watched the sun set for an hour which was beautiful, but I still didn’t think I had the best shots. I was just about to give up when the sun finally set and – Wow! – suddenly the sky had changed and the photographic possibilities opened up to me. In the half hour after sunset I took a shot a lot of images.

This image is one of my favourites from that third night:

Pointe de Trévignon HDR

Taken about 30 minutes after sunset, the sky has begun to fade slightly but there is still plenty of colour. I’ve combined exposures taken at 0EV, -1EV and -2EV to create an HDR image then dropped back to 16-bit mode to apply a Photoshop Velvia action before finally straightening the image, cropping and saving as an 8-bit JPEG. Incidentally, I first did this in Photoshop CS2 on the Mac and the process introduced quite a bit of digital noise – switching to Photoshop CS3 seems to have corrected that problem.

As can be seen from the non-Photoshopped original images below, even without the HDR, underexposing by 1-2 stops seemed to work well (from memory, I probably used a 0.6ND graduated filter to tone down the sky too) but, whilst the the -2EV shot has plenty of sunset detail, it has silhouetted the lighthouse and rocks. The -1EV shot is balanced, but the foreground is still a little on the dark side, whilst the 0EV shot has started to burn out the sky. By merging the three shots I managed to keep both the shadow detail and the highlights and the 6 second exposure from the 0EV shot shows the movement of the water on the exposed side of the harbour wall.

Original images used to create Pointe de Trévignon HDR

The lesson for me was that I needed to work to find the right location and lighting and, importantly, it was only when I was in the right frame of mind and was excited by the natural world around me that I started to see the real photographic opportunities.

“I often think of that rare fulfilling joy when I’m in the presence of some wonderful alignment of events.

Where the light, the colour, the shapes and the balance all interlock that I feel truly overwhelmed by the wonder of it”

[Charlie Waite]

It took three visits before I got the right shots to make this image. Only once I’d fully engaged with the natural world and immersed myself in the environment around me could I unlock the photographic potential of the scene to create some technically correct images that were then combined to make something creatively pleasing.

Of course, there are some who have both the skills and the experience to just know what works and what doesn’t and they might get it right first time. I’m pretty pleased with the final result but it’s far from perfect. I need to get out more and learn what works and what doesn’t. Even after 25 years-or-so of taking photographs, I have too strong a bias towards the technology and I need to work on the creative site of things. I also need to play around a bit more with Photoshop’s HDR capabilities (or possibly some alternative packages) and see how I can gain more control over how the images are merged. For a first attempt at creating an HDR image this is not too bad but professional landscape photographers like Joe Cornish and Charlie Waite have nothing to fear from me just yet!

Photoshop Velvia

This content is 16 years old. I don't routinely update old blog posts as they are only intended to represent a view at a particular point in time. Please be warned that the information here may be out of date.

Back in the days when I used to shoot my photos on film, my preferred slide emulsion was Fujifilm Velvia (RVP). With strong colour saturation (particularly green) this film is particularly good for landscape work and, ever since I switched to digital, I’ve felt that there was some “punch” missing from my landscapes.

Then I came across episode 19 of This Week in Photography, in which the subject of creating Photoshop actions is demonstrated using “Scott’s Photoshop Velvia”. I tried it out today and it really works.

  1. Take an image and create a duplicate layer (in the process giving yourself the ability to return to the original at any time).
  2. Next, use the Channel Mixer on each of the three colour channels (red/green/blue) as follows:
    • Red channel: R 118% G -9% B -9%
    • Green channel: R -9% G 118% B -9%
    • Blue channel: R -9% G -9% B 118%
  3. Finally, adjust the contrast by tweaking the curves to produce a very slight S shape.

Here’s one of my images before and after the Photoshop Velvia treatment was applied:

Without Photoshop VelviaWith Photoshop Velvia

Hopefully you can see that the second image appears much more vibrant than the first.

Photoshop CS3 users can download the Photoshop Velvia custom action, but please note there is no warranty implied, no support, and you use it at your own risk. Thanks are due to Scott Bourne for demonstrating this – it really is a great Photoshop tip.

Diary of a business traveller: when it all comes together

This content is 17 years old. I don't routinely update old blog posts as they are only intended to represent a view at a particular point in time. Please be warned that the information here may be out of date.

Ask anyone who travels a lot on business and they’ll tell you it’s not all it’s cracked up to be. After a while, every hotel room is pretty much like the last one. Driving gets tiring. Trains run late. And airports are my idea of hell.

Most of my travel is within the UK but today has been an exceptionally long one. Up at 5.45, out of the house by 6.10 and onto the first train to Manchester. Taxi across town to spend the day on a training course (soft skills stuff – nothing technical for this blog…) then travel south again (fighting to keep a VPN signal on Vodafone
‘s 3G/GPRS networks as the Virgin Pendalino sped across the Midlands and I wrote my presentation for tomorrow’s client meeting) to pick up my car and drive to London to check into the hotel that I will call home for the next three nights (it takes about half the time to travel down at night that it would in the morning). All in all, I’ve travelled about 500 miles and managed to fit in a full day’s work as well.

So imagine my surprise when I checked in to the Hilton London Docklands tonight. First of all I was greeted by name (that’s why I use that particular hotel when I’m in town – it may be a bit shabby around the edges but its within my budget limits and I’m treated well – and I don’t stay that often). Then I was told that my room had been upgraded. It turns out that “home” for the next few nights is a suite – with a bedroom, two bathrooms, a living room and a view over the Thames to Canary Wharf. It might not be the Hilton Auckland (where my wife and I stayed on the first night of my honeymoon) or the Shangri-La in Sydney (where we spent Christmas the year before – back when it was the ANA Harbour Grand) but, compared to some of the dives that my company’s booking agency puts us in, this is great – it’s just a shame that I’m here on my own!

Canary Wharf  from Rotherhithe

The picture above is the view from my room. For those who don’t know London, it shows the Thames and Canary Wharf (one of London’s two financial districts – the other being the square mile that is the City of London itself). The small version of the image for the blog is a bit difficult to view, so click through for a larger version.

The final image is a cropped photomerge of three separate pictures taken using my Canon Digital Ixus 70 (not even my DSLR), cropped and resized. What I hadn’t appreciated before was just how easy this is to produce using Adobe Photoshop CS2 (even better in CS3, as Alex Lindsay describes in episode 12 of This Week in Photography) – just go to the File menu, select Automate and then Photomerge. After this, select the images, and let Photoshop work out how to join everything up. It’s incredibly simple and it even handles perspective (I don’t know how – it’s just amazing).

Photomerging in Adobe Photoshop CS2

Business travel may be a bind but I do like it when it all comes together – especially when I get a good picture out of it.

Useful digital photography utilities

This content is 17 years old. I don't routinely update old blog posts as they are only intended to represent a view at a particular point in time. Please be warned that the information here may be out of date.

I’ve just got back from a weekend in the Peak District National Park and, rewarded with clear blue skies as dawn broke yesterday morning, I rushed to the top of Mam Tor to rekindle my long-dormant desire to make great landscape photographs (I’m no Joe Cornish, but there has to be some reward for leaving my tent at 5.15).

It gave me a chance to try out a number of things that I’ve wanted to do for a while – shooting camera raw (.NEF) images and using the Lee Filters 0.6 ND graduated filter that I bought a couple of years ago. I have to say, that I am definitely a convert to these features (although they would not be practical for the majority of my photography which falls into the “snapshots of the kids” category). Both the OS X Preview application and my post-production tool of choice (Adobe Photoshop CS2) had no difficulty opening the camera raw files and the quality is excellent (Windows users might find this post useful). Meanwhile, whilst using a large graduated filter on a camera with only a 24mm image sensor makes it slightly difficult to position, using the 0.6 ND filter to tone down the sky by two stops meant that I was able to take pictures with a well-exposed foreground, without washing out the highlights.

Renamer4MacI also found a couple of little programs came in useful when I got home. Firstly, having had some issues with my CF card before leaving home, I formatted it and the file numbering recommenced from DSC_0001.* – thanks to a little recommendation from my buddy Alex, I used Renamer4Mac to bulk rename the files. Also useful (although not for the RAW files) was Simple EXIF Viewer for Mac OS XAli Ozer’s Simple EXIF Viewer for Mac OS X, which let me easily examine the EXIF data on my images (something sadly lacking in the OS X Finder).

Finally, whilst writing about OS X and digital photography (apologies to Windows readers but my digital photography workflow is based on a Mac) it’s worth mentioning one little tip that can come in useful (much as I hate to publicise anything from Scott Bourne, whose “advice” often serves only to fuel Apple elitism and general Mac vs. PC bigotry, I think I picked this up from an iLifeZone podcast). Previewing multiple images in Mac OS XUnlike the Windows Preview function, which lets viewers page forwards and backwards through a directory of files, the OS X Preview default is to open just a single file. Switchers are often frustrated by this (I know I was) but it is possible to open multiple images in Preview (by selecting multiple files, then choosing to open with Preview), after which the cursor keys can be used to scroll through the list.

The Photoshop book for digital photographers

This content is 17 years old. I don't routinely update old blog posts as they are only intended to represent a view at a particular point in time. Please be warned that the information here may be out of date.

It’s been a busy year. My family blog hasn’t been updated in a very long time and we’ve been accumulating digital photos of the boys at an alarming rate. Last night my wife and I and I went through some of them to work out which ones to print (we still have paper-based albums because they are easier to look at) and we still have a lot left to sort out.

I don’t print the photos at home because the high street labs can do it more cost-effectively (sure, they screw up the colours more than I would like for some of my work but remember we’re only talking about the family album here). Even so, there are some edits that need to be made before I send the photos to the lab, and whilst the free tools with Windows or OS X will help me, I prefer the control that a tool like Adobe Photoshop gives me.

The Photoshop book for digital photographersThe trouble is, Photoshop is not always intuitive. I want to understand what I’m doing but half the time I don’t – and the local adult education Photoshop classes run in the daytime (when I’m at work). That’s where the Photoshop book for digital photographers comes in handy. I asked Santa to bring me this as a Christmas present a couple of years back and it’s been great. The main difference between this book and any other Photoshop book that I’ve seen is that instead of telling me what the various features are in Photoshop and how to use them, it takes me through an example (like instant red eye removal, colour-correcting images, or stitching panoramas together), with illustrations. I suppose now I need the traditional manual to teach me how Photoshop works (I’m considering buying the Adobe Photoshop CS3 classroom in a book), but this book gets me going – in effect it teaches me how to do things, not why a particular method works. I still have to ask my friend Alex for help on the more complex stuff (he does pre-press work for a living and really knows his way around Photoshop, Xpress, etc.) but at least with this book I can be self-sufficient for 95% of my digital photo edits. I should probably point out that the version of the book I’m using is based on Photoshop 7.0 but the techniques still seem to work for me with CS2.

If only real life was like Photoshop, I could use the book techniques to remove dark circles under my eyes, whiten teeth, remove love-handles, generally slim and trim myself. Sadly, life’s not like that – so another big push with Weightwatchers and some more exercise it’ll be then…